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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.